No heating or hot water
The boiler won't fire, or fires and cuts out. Often a failed ignition, gas valve, fan or PCB fault.
No heating, no hot water, a fault code flashing or a boiler stuck in lockout? Call and speak straight to the Gas Safe registered engineer who'll come out, find the fault and fix it.
Most breakdowns show one of these symptoms. Tell us which one when you call and we'll know what to bring.
The boiler won't fire, or fires and cuts out. Often a failed ignition, gas valve, fan or PCB fault.
The display shows a code and a reset light. The code tells us where to start, so have it ready when you call.
Pressure below about 1 bar can trigger a safety lockout. Repeated drops point to a leak, a failing expansion vessel or a faulty pressure relief valve.
A classic cold-snap fault: gurgling, then lockout. The acidic condensate freezes in the outside pipe and backs up.
A kettle-like rumble usually means limescale or sludge on the heat exchanger, causing water to boil locally.
Water under the boiler, soot marks or a lazy yellow flame on older appliances are warning signs. Turn it off and call. If you smell gas, call 0800 111 999 first.
Smell gas? Don't call us first. Open doors and windows, don't use electrical switches or naked flames, turn off the gas at the meter if it's safe to, leave the property and call the National Gas Emergency Service free on 0800 111 999, 24 hours a day.
A few numbers every homeowner should know, taken from the regulations and manufacturers' guidance.
The range most sealed combi systems are set to when cold. Check your boiler's manual for its exact figure.
Source: boiler manufacturers' manualsFree, 24 hours. Call this first if you smell gas or suspect carbon monoxide.
Source: National Gas Emergency ServiceManufacturers recommend an annual service, and many make it a condition of the warranty.
Source: manufacturer warranty termsAnyone working on a gas appliance for money must be on the Gas Safe Register.
Source: Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998Modern condensing boilers recover heat from their flue gases, which produces acidic water (condensate) that drains away through a plastic pipe. When that pipe runs outside in a narrow bore, it can freeze in a cold snap, the condensate backs up, and the boiler shuts itself down to stay safe. Industry guidance recommends larger 32 mm pipe for external runs to reduce the risk.
Your heating is a sealed loop. As water heats it expands, and an expansion vessel absorbs that growth. If the vessel loses its air charge or there's a leak, pressure swings too high or too low and the boiler locks out. That's why a boiler that needs regular topping up always has an underlying fault worth fixing.
Tell us the make, the fault code and what's happening. You'll get an honest arrival time.
Fault codes, pressure, gas and flue checks. We find the cause, not just the symptom.
You get a clear price and explanation before anything is replaced.
Repaired, tested for safe combustion and left running, with the paperwork you need.
Where possible, yes. Call and you'll speak straight to the engineer, who will give you an honest arrival time based on where they are and what's already booked.
Weekday call-outs are £120, including diagnosis and the first hour. Evening, weekend and overnight rates are higher, and you'll see your exact price before you book. You'll always be told the price for the repair before any work starts, so there are no surprises.
Usually, yes. Most combi boilers have a filling loop, and your manual shows how to bring the pressure back to the level it recommends, commonly around 1 to 1.5 bar when cold. If the pressure keeps dropping, there's a leak or a faulty part, and it needs an engineer.
Pressing reset once or twice, following the manufacturer's instructions, is fine. If it keeps locking out, stop and call an engineer. Never remove the boiler casing yourself: only a Gas Safe registered engineer can legally work on gas appliances.
Condensing boilers drain acidic water through a condensate pipe. If that pipe runs outside, it can freeze and block, and the boiler locks out. Pouring warm (not boiling) water over the frozen section often clears it. We can re-route or upsize the pipe so it doesn't happen again.
We work on most major UK makes, including combi, system and regular boilers. Tell us the make and the fault code when you call and we'll tell you straight away if we can help.
Based in Trowbridge, covering a 25-mile radius. Not sure if you're covered? Call and ask.
Speak straight to the Gas Safe registered engineer, not a call centre.